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Cleaning binos?

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muddy View Drop Down
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    Posted: February/14/2011 at 14:33
Just bought some ELs and am wondering what sort of suggestions you all have for cleaning them?  I've read on here that the LensPen is NOT the way to go?  How about those alcohol soaked glasses cleaning packaged cloths that a guy can buy at LensCrafters or most eye care stores?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lucytuma Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/14/2011 at 14:58
"The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not." - Thomas Jefferson
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote muddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/15/2011 at 09:04
That's pretty much the exact same set up as what I can get at any optical eye glasses centers around my area.

Would there REALLY be any difference you think?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bitterroot Bulls Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/15/2011 at 14:23
Probably not much difference in lens kits.  Swarovski recommends using an optical lens brush and condensation from your breath on the lens as a cleaning agent.  
-Matt
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote supertool73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/15/2011 at 14:30
I use canned air to blow all the dust off of them and then either my Zeiss solution like above or the solution you can get at the Walmart eye center.  As far as I can tell it is the same stuff.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonoMT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/15/2011 at 14:42
I've had the best results using the Zeiss cleaning fluid. A LensPen is not necessarily a bad thing. What's bad is not first removing all the abrasive debris and oils first. The first step is to hold the lens downwards while spraying it with compressed air to blow out as much as you can. Then soak the lens with cleaning fluid. Using cotton swabs, LIGHTLY remove the fluid by making a spiral pass around the lens, working from the center outwards. Never scrub because even cotton contains some naturally occuring abrasive and never make more than one pass with each end of a swab. Do this until the lens is dry. The final step is to gently wipe up any remaining streaks. I either use a clean optics cloth (careful to always use just one side that I never touch with finger oils) or the carbon black end of a LensPen. Again, the key is to go lightly. You just need to skim the lens surface to lift and remove any grime.
Reaction time is a factor...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote muddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/19/2011 at 13:44
Any type of cotton swabs better than others?  I've seen special lens cleaning q tips that I thought about picking up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mike650 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/19/2011 at 14:43
Originally posted by Bitterroot Bulls Bitterroot Bulls wrote:

Probably not much difference in lens kits.  Swarovski recommends using an optical lens brush and condensation from your breath on the lens as a cleaning agent.  


That should probably work when wipes, etc. are not available in the field.

Straight from the Swarovski Cleaning kit literature...

A: Quick Clean
- Remove dust with brush
- Clean lens with a circular motion from inside to outside using moist wipe.

B: Thorough Clean
- Remove dust with brush
- Place a few drops of lens solution cleaner on microfiber cloth.
- Clean lens with a circular motion from inside to outside using microfiber cloth. Then dry using microfiber cloth
- Wash microfiber cloth regularly (see label).


http://swfa.com/Swarovski-Lens-Cleaning-Kit-P6215.aspx




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Klamath Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/20/2011 at 08:20





You guys are familiar with the concept of sandblasting right? There is a reason that the Swarovski instructions posted above do NOT mention either canned or compressed air and there is no mention in any form of using a "blast" of air. Don't use any more air than what you can generate with the mouth.



Edited by Klamath - February/20/2011 at 08:25
Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote muddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/23/2011 at 10:56
Thanks again for the advice.  When researching "cleaning binoculars" I always found little squeezey hand air pumps and figured that canned compressed air was a bad idea.  Even if over priced I bought the Swaro kit so that way if I ever have problems I can shake that in customer services face and say that I've always supported them and their products.

Can't wait for turkey season.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonoMT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/23/2011 at 12:38
I see your point, Klamath. However, I'll mention that:

  1. I always hold the compressed air 6" or more from the lens (and don't use a straw on it)
  2. Using a brush would strike me as just a good a way to accidentally etch the lens
Reaction time is a factor...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote supertool73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/23/2011 at 12:54
The US Optics scope lens cleaning video shows them using canned air.  Apparently just like everything else in life there is more than one way to skin a cat. 

http://www.usoptics.com/index.php?page=instructions
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote supertool73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/31/2011 at 10:01
Just came across a post on the hide.  Paul from Premier also recommends using canned air to blow dust off the lenses before doing anything else.  
Lifetime warranty and excellent customer service don't mean a thing when your gun fails during a zombie attack.

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