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Working up loads and repeatability |
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EAGLE
Optics Journeyman Joined: August/08/2011 Status: Offline Points: 346 |
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Posted: December/28/2014 at 20:40 |
I'm new to reloading and someone told me things that I'm unsure about:
1. If I use Hornady, Winchester, RP, LC or Federal brass that I need to use new brass for finding an accurate load. Once I find a bullet, primer powder combo, In order to repeat, I must use a new piece of brass or accuracy will be different per firing (even if brass is fire formed to Bolt Action ) because of thinner walls, being stretched and trimmed. 2. Laupa and Norma brass are the exceptions, but only up to three firings then toss them. Is this true and if so, how much variance (if I do my part) ? Edited by EAGLE - December/28/2014 at 20:55 |
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Longhunter
Optics Journeyman Joined: February/02/2006 Status: Offline Points: 466 |
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Based on my actual experience: 1. No, and no.2. No, and (probably) no, unless you are maxing the loads in some fire-breathing dragon of a rifle. 3. Find another advisor, and lose this "someone". If the original factory ammunition was fired in your rifle, you can almost certainly reload it safely. Furthermore, your reloads (after the first firing) will all be using used brass. I'm not personally a big believer in picking up someone else's used brass, because you normally don't know its history. There are exceptions, of course. A number of reloaders do this, but they (hopefully) inspect the recovered brass carefully before using it. Different reloaders favor different brands of brass. This varies, depending on their experience and the purpose of their reloads (plinking, hunting, or competition). As to how many reloads, that depends upon the brass, the caliber and the load. You will have a hard time wearing out a box of .38 special brass, for example. Standard rifle calibers with reasonable loads can take a decent (but limited) number of reloadings without a problem.. Heavy magnum rifle reloads require some caution, and the brass will take a very limited number of reloads. Get several good reloading manuals Learn what signs to look for in deciding whether the brass is nearing the end of its life. Talk to experienced people at the range, and see what their experience has been with the loads they use. And always err on the side of safety. You can't replace your face! Good luck, and have fun getting into a fascinating and rewarding hobby! |
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EAGLE
Optics Journeyman Joined: August/08/2011 Status: Offline Points: 346 |
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I do have 3 or 4 manuals which I read and been reloading for a 10mm (why I started reloading).
This someone approached me when I was picking up .308 brass off the ground at my local range. I told him that I was going to order some Hornady dies and start reloading for my .308 rifle. Also, he said not to waste my time with RCBS (ok but not great) , Hornady (over works the brass) and Lee (cheap) dies that Redding and Foster bushing types dies are going to be my best bet at an affordable price. He said that the expander can cause problems (stretch or deform brass neck/shoulders) so this is why he suggested bushing type die without using an expander. When it comes to people, I always caution with error. |
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EAGLE
Optics Journeyman Joined: August/08/2011 Status: Offline Points: 346 |
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Forgot to say, I picked up some 4064, Reloader 15, 210 primers, and 165gr SST. I will start 10% below max loads listed in the manauls (comparing different listing) and work up in .2gr increments (watching out for pressure signs, etc).
Any recommendations on a uniform case trimmer ? |
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billyburl2
Optics Master Extraordinaire Joined: January/08/2009 Location: Cottonwood, AZ Status: Offline Points: 4015 |
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If you set up full=length sizing dies the way the manual tells you to, they do work the brass a lot. My recommendation would be to totally full-length size your "range" brass once, then back off the die considerably after it has been fired in your chamber.
With the help of friend and his tool, (I looked for link, but couldn't find it.) my "cheap" Hornady full-length sizing die bumps the shoulder on my 6.5 Creed brass .002". These Hornady brand brass have 8 firings without annealing, and still very consistent. As far as case trimmers go, I use a Lyman and Forster. I picked the Lyman for free and Forster was in the bottom of box at a Garage sell for I think $10... The Forster seems to be a bit more "solid", but the Lyman is quicker to change cartridge lengths.
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If it is tourist season, why can't we shoot them?
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BeltFed
Optics Retard Joined: February/12/2008 Location: Ky Status: Offline Points: 22287 |
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Eagle, there are a lot of different reasons to reload, everything from accuracy to cost and any combination in between. There are also a lot of reloaders with their own ideas about reloading and what it SHOULD be in their eyes. What works for one reloader may not work for another. A general rule to follow should be is, you reload for yourself and yourself only.
Longhunter had some good advice and good answers for your first questions. As for brands of equipment for reloading, kind of think about it like this; they make Fords, and they make Chevys, both will get you from point A to point B, the only difference is how YOU feel about it. Since your just starting out set your goals and follow the manuals. Try not to get to annal about things, but try to be consistent. When I started reloading, it was for the .357Magnum and I wanted the most powerful and accurate loads I could get without turning my revolver into spare parts. After experimenting with different components and learning the basics of reloading, I picked the components I wanted to start with. I worked up slowly looking for signs of pressure, and I found the most accurate load with those components that was safe to use in my revolver. That was 40 years ago and I have been reloading ever since. I have learned a lot since then and I've had a lot of fun too. |
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Life's concerns should be about the 120lb pack your trying to get to the top of the mountain, and not the rock in your boot.
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EAGLE
Optics Journeyman Joined: August/08/2011 Status: Offline Points: 346 |
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I'm not rich and wanted to start reloading for my 700 rifle to get the most out of it for hunting without spending a ton on custom upgrades.
I do plan on having fun and enjoying it to the fullest. Thanks for your input. Happy New Year! |
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EAGLE
Optics Journeyman Joined: August/08/2011 Status: Offline Points: 346 |
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I do have another question about fire forming brass to my bolt guns chamber and working up loads:
Do I start working up loads after my brass has been fire formed ? Thanks in advance for helping. |
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Steelbenz
Optics Jedi Knight ROLL TIDE ROLL Joined: January/03/2006 Location: Heart of Dixie Status: Offline Points: 5153 |
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I'm going to be nice........... Fire your reloading advisor.
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"Don't argue with a fool! From a distance you can't really tell who's who!"
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Steelbenz
Optics Jedi Knight ROLL TIDE ROLL Joined: January/03/2006 Location: Heart of Dixie Status: Offline Points: 5153 |
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I've posted this before somewhere in here but again.
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"Don't argue with a fool! From a distance you can't really tell who's who!"
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Steelbenz
Optics Jedi Knight ROLL TIDE ROLL Joined: January/03/2006 Location: Heart of Dixie Status: Offline Points: 5153 |
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Don't let Louis's buddy load your shells either.
Might be trouble.
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"Don't argue with a fool! From a distance you can't really tell who's who!"
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cheaptrick
MODERATOR Joined: September/27/2004 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 20844 |
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If at first you don't secede...try..try again.
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anweis
Optics Master Joined: January/29/2006 Status: Offline Points: 1148 |
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The cheapest and most accurate, and fastest and easiest to use, would be the caliber specific case trimmers from Lee, the ones that allow you to chuck the case in a drill, and they have a guide rod that goes inside the case and serve as a stop for the cutter.
In one set you get a caliber specific case gauge and shell holder and in the other kit you get the lock stud and case cutter. After you buy the lock stud and cutter, all you need is the gauge and shellholder for each caliber. I have one set for each caliber and the consistency, ease of use, and speed, are amazing. I gave my almost new Redding trimmer to a friend. Don't forget to get a RCBS chamfer and deburring tool After you fire the cases in your rifle, adjust the sizing die up, screw out 1/8 or even 1/4 or a turn, size two or three cases and check to see if the cases chamber. If they do, you are good to go. The less you form and size cases, the longer they last and more accurate they shoot. Brush and lubricate the inside and outside of the necks, brass will stretch less that way. Don't forget to clean and remove all lube before loading primer, powder, bullet. I have Remington 6 mm cases that i have reloaded 18 times. Every year i hand load them once, check the load and the scope, and go hunting. Same 20 cases, same bullets, same powder, same rifle, same scope. Over the last 18 years point of impact has changed less than 1" at 100 yards. I did anneal the case necks a few years ago. Trimmed once. Full re-sizing two or three times, the rest neck sized as described above. Your information in the original posting is extreme, unlikely.
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cheaptrick
MODERATOR Joined: September/27/2004 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 20844 |
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I wrap #0000 steel wool around a barrel brush of the same caliber and clean the inside of the case necks that way.
Using this system, I don't have to expose the inside of the case necks to lube, thus eliminating powder sticking to the lube when charging the case.
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If at first you don't secede...try..try again.
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koshkin
MODERATOR Dark Lord of Optics Joined: June/15/2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13182 |
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I use Lapua and Norma brass whenever I have a choice. That shortened my prep time considerably.
I neck size whenever possible. That lets me use the cases many more times than with full length sizing. I seldom load anything super hot, so that probably helps. I found that when I have a good barrel, accuracy is largely due to the bullet choice. Once I find a bullet that barrel likes, many different powders work well with the best accuracy usually found when loaded 1 - 1.5 grains below max. ILya
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EAGLE
Optics Journeyman Joined: August/08/2011 Status: Offline Points: 346 |
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Thanks for the feedback and Happy New Year |
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Roy Finn
MODERATOR Steiner Junkie Joined: April/05/2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4856 |
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I'm with you ILya as I use Lapua and Norma brass in my 300 WM (Lapua), 30/06 (Lapua) and 280 Ackley (Norma 280 brass). Ditto on the neck sizing which I've never had a problem chambering so long as I'm keeping the brass with one rifle only. Along that line, using other people's brass, range brass, once fired stuff from retailers etc is bad JuJu for me. Even though you can run them through a FL die, there can be differences from chamber to chamber that the FL die won't correct, usually at the base of fired brass. You will (can) see hard chambering at that point so I don't bother dicking around with that route. Some extra tips from me would be to trim all your brass to the exact same length. This helps a lot with neck tension which leads to consistent accuracy. Doesn't matter how long they are, only that all are the same length. I usually take mine back 5 thousandths. Another trick I picked up (not sure if any one of these nuggets of advise will help but together they will help not hurt your handloads) is to leave the de-priming pin/stem loose in the resizing die whether you're using the FL or Neck die. The thought here is that necks can get pulled from one side to the other when the brass is run over the sizing ball as it exits the die. That leaves the neck cocked and will not help get the bullet straight as it heading for the rifling. What I do is to just install the de-capping rod as I would normally and not use the locking ring as this allows the de-capping rod to have some play (sort of self centering) as its run through the die. There are also "floating" type de-capping rods available from Redding too with carbide buttons. Lastly, so long as your magazine length allows, I seat all my bullets to just slightly kiss the rifling. Guys like to experiment with seating depths to find the best accuracy, but I've always gotten the best from the kiss. In all honesty, once you don't see rifling marks on your bullets, you're really not 100% sure of exactly how much jump to lands you have anyway. All kinds of tools out there to try to establish an exact seating jump, but I've see bullets from the same manufacturer undergo slight changes and ogive measurements change. I've seen this with Nosler BT as they've "toughened" them up by using thicker jackets which changes the ogive distance |
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Roy Finn
MODERATOR Steiner Junkie Joined: April/05/2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4856 |
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I do the same using a cordless drill to speed things up. HNY Roy |
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Sgt. D
Optics Master Extraordinaire Joined: February/20/2008 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 4525 |
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Wish your pic would have included the next line. "Failure is................" It would be helpful to share what qualifies as failure. For me it is a split neck or deformed neck or a primer pocket that is too loose. There are others but they escape me right now. While on the subject and to offer more info for Eagle, how many of you go beyond cleaning the primer pocket and drill out the port? Either just for cleaning sake or actually drill oversize. I've been told drilling slightly oversize helps with consistency when shooting competition but, must admit I'm alittle skeptical. I mean if there was carbon buildup or obstruction sure, your not going to get a clean exchange. But with todays primers you should get a very consistent ignition if the ports are clean. Right?? |
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Take care of Soldiers, Show em how its done and do it with em, Run to the Fight & and hold your ground! I die my men go home! If you're a NCO and this ain't you. GET OUT! GOD BLESS AMERICA!
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EAGLE
Optics Journeyman Joined: August/08/2011 Status: Offline Points: 346 |
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I have a tumbler and stainless media. I deprimed (no resizing) and tumbled.
My question is should I tumble after resizing, trim, debur (neck & flash hole), etc or will the banging around deform the necks ? So I guess using once fired LC brass would be ok (FL resizing) for an AR, but I should buy new brass for my bolt ? |
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