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1-? Illuminated reticle scope for 375 thru 458 rif |
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Cold Trigger Finger
Optics Apprentice Joined: December/20/2013 Location: Int.Alaska Status: Offline Points: 209 |
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Most of the( bear up close ) is generally fairly straight forward. But a low powered optic is generally preferable to irons. Actually . both jobs are about equally important. Also. Most of the time a low powered optic is faster than irons. At least with most modern comb and heel configured sporting rifles.
I subsistence hunt so keeping the cost down is fairly important. Thanks for the advice everyone. |
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probably
Optics Apprentice Joined: June/01/2016 Location: Old America Status: Offline Points: 70 |
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if you are worried about an up close shot on a charging bear, consider something like the trijicon RMR on top of whatever scope you choose to use for longer distance shots. the military used them in conjunction with ACOGS, so as far as reliability in a life-or-death situation goes, that is a big endorsement.
just as an example:
Edited by probably - May/01/2018 at 02:27 |
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Scrumbag
Optics Master Extraordinaire Joined: October/22/2013 Location: London, UK Status: Offline Points: 4205 |
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I have a suggestion:
If you can do it, a peep sight for helping your eyes and close shooting. (I have pretty bad stigmatism and fine express-V / post and U-notch sights quite a challenge). What I have done with my 9.3x62 that I use a boar rifle is as follows. 1) I have a peep sight on the cocking piece for shooting driven (Running) boar with it 2) A 8x56 fixed scope for stand work at night under the moon You in a similar vein could have your irons for dealing with a bear and your fixed scope (SWFA 10x42?) in QD mounts for dealing with carribou out a fair way? If I'm feeling flush later in the year I might well spring for an aimpoint Scrummy
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Was sure I had a point when I started this post...
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tahqua
MODERATOR Have You Driven A Ford Lately? Joined: March/27/2006 Location: Michigan, USA Status: Offline Points: 9044 |
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My .375 H&H has a Kahles 1.1-4 x24 with a 4A and the back up is a Leupold 1.5-5x20 with plex. Thwey are mounted with Talley QD's. Both are well known to be reliable on heavy kickers.
The Kahles has superior optics, contrast and resolution, and the 4A is fast up close and good enough for any 300 yard shot on H&H worthy beast. My 1-4 SS is on a carbine and is fine for that use.
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Doug
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Urimaginaryfrnd
MODERATOR Resident Redneck Joined: June/20/2005 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 14964 |
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https://swfa.com/trijicon-1-6x24-accupoint-30mm-rifle-scope-21.html
Trijicon 1-4 or 1-6 preferably with the red post for up close or if distance shots will be needed go mil dot and use the dots as hold over marks by running a balistic chart in Mils then using that to determine what the dots represent at distance at the max power of the scope. (2nd focal plane the mil dots will only be true at max power or a specific power selected by the manufacturer) I have a 1-4 Accupoint Trijicon that I am very happy with is been on 300 Win Mag and others.
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"Always do the right thing, just because it is the right thing to do". Bobby Paul Doherty Texas Ranger |
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Cold Trigger Finger
Optics Apprentice Joined: December/20/2013 Location: Int.Alaska Status: Offline Points: 209 |
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I was wondering about the Trigicon. Pretty good looking scope. I've used the M8 3 power Leupold quite a bit. But it sucks in low light. Which we have lots of in Alaska.
The 1-4×20 Vari X 2 I used for years did OK as far as holding up for a several years. But again it sucked in low light. It did live thru a fair thrashing on my 458 and on a 416 Taylor. But eventually it went to $μ¡+. I think I'll get a Vortex Crossfire 2 1-4 ×24 with the V Bright reticle. Save my money for a PST2 1-6 mil/mil. |
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Shenko
Optics Apprentice Joined: April/20/2008 Location: WA Status: Offline Points: 249 |
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'It sucked in low light.' Small objectives suck in low light.
So, don't go with a cheap scope with a small objective. Go with a good scope with a bigger objective, and turn up the magnification enough to take advantage of the bigger objective. |
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koshkin
MODERATOR Dark Lord of Optics Joined: June/15/2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13182 |
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I do not know of Crossfire will do all that well on a heavy kicker, but anything is possible.
If you are looking for better low light, as always, price goes up, so I do not know how happy you will be with the Crossfire. On the other hand, it is an inexpensive experiment. I remember years ago, Bushnell used to make Elite 1.25-4x24 scope with an illuminated dot and #4 reticle. That would have been a nearly perfect scope for you. I used one for quite a while, but eventually sold it since I like to try new stuff. I just noticed that SWFA has a sale on the VX-R 1.25-4x20 for $500 with an AR style mount for $500. You can probably sell th emount on Ebay for $100 or so and the scope will only run you $400. That is a good deal for a VX-R. ILya
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Scrumbag
Optics Master Extraordinaire Joined: October/22/2013 Location: London, UK Status: Offline Points: 4205 |
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I have a VX-R scout scope on my .44 mag (1.5-5x33) and must admit I like it
I think straight tubes and low light will never be friends...
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Was sure I had a point when I started this post...
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Scrumbag
Optics Master Extraordinaire Joined: October/22/2013 Location: London, UK Status: Offline Points: 4205 |
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Thinking about it, if you could find the 1.6-8x42 Kahles that would be a great scope...
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Was sure I had a point when I started this post...
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tahqua
MODERATOR Have You Driven A Ford Lately? Joined: March/27/2006 Location: Michigan, USA Status: Offline Points: 9044 |
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Getting back to the illumination, I also have a 1.1-4x24 Kahles with illuminated C-Dot. It presently sits on a Ruger #1 in 45-70. This gun can kick with heavy loads but they don't kick like the rounds being talked about. If the illumination fails the C-Dot is still usable.
The reason I have that scope on the 45-70 is, one the gun doesn't punish the scope and secondly I am concerned about the reliability of the illumination if I put it on my .375 H&H. The 1.1-4x24 with 4A on the H&H is very good in low light and in the thick stuff bear hang out. There are plenty of good suggestions here but I would be concerned about electronic illumination on a heavy kicker. Trijicon is another story, though.
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Doug
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Cold Trigger Finger
Optics Apprentice Joined: December/20/2013 Location: Int.Alaska Status: Offline Points: 209 |
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By sucking in low light . What I mean is not being able to see the center of the reticle . Illuminated reticles solve that problem. As long as they work. One reason I was thinking about the Trigicon. , apparently they don't need batteries . ????
Don't know for sure tho as I've never looked thru one. A HUGE thing the Vortex has going for it is 4" of eye relief !!!! And , as near as I know , even the Crossfire 2 1-4 has an etched reticle. !! The PST2 1-6 has 4" eye relief or very close to it also. And a mil scale . And illumination. And undercover turrets on the mil/mil scope. It is on the short list. |
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You are being watched.
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tahqua
MODERATOR Have You Driven A Ford Lately? Joined: March/27/2006 Location: Michigan, USA Status: Offline Points: 9044 |
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I can see the etched 4A in all legal hunting light and all conditions and cover.
TrijiconAccuPoint doesn't need batteries, Accupower does.
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Doug
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Cold Trigger Finger
Optics Apprentice Joined: December/20/2013 Location: Int.Alaska Status: Offline Points: 209 |
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Thank you. The Accu Point doesn't take batteries. That's good to know.
So I was looking at the Leatherwood CMR line at SWFA. Unfortunately the 1-4 only lists 3" of eye relief. The 1-8 does have 4" so that short lists that scope. |
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Cold Trigger Finger
Optics Apprentice Joined: December/20/2013 Location: Int.Alaska Status: Offline Points: 209 |
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So , in my studying I think the Nikon Black Force 1000 1-4 ×24 should work . At least for the time being.
On Accurate Reloading there are several guys that are Big Recoil hogs! Regularly shoot rifles I wouldn't even think about shooting. They went thru the Leupold phase and went to Nikon. Monarch's and Muzzle Loader/Inline scopes and haven't had a problem with the scopes retaining zero. One just got the 1-4 Black Force and is putting it on a 458 Win mag running full pressure loads . It will be interesting to see his results |
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You are being watched.
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Paladin155
Optics GrassHopper Joined: June/06/2018 Location: SW Ohio Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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I learned my lesson mounting scopes on heavy kickers. Anybody can mount a scope on a .223 or a .308. When you start to go over 3000 ft/lbs of ME your mounting has to be right and as the ME rises the problem gets worse quick. You can kill any improperly installed scope. Regardless of the ring/mount set-up the rings have to be lapped. Not so much to get maximum contact between the ring and scope tube to prevent slipping, but to insure both rings are one the same plane. You mount the scope in a bind and it will not last long. For a two-piece scope mount when I'm trying to save weight I like the Talley Lightweights. If you want the convenience of being able to quickly remove the scope I like to use Burris Xtreme Tactical two-piece bases. When it comes to bases I look for full width cross slots and preferably steel. For a one-piece base my go to is a Murphy but have used EGW's HD line. Scope weight (including rings) plays a factor also. The more weight (mass) the more strain on the rings recoil lug and even the scope mount screws. You mount a big heavy honker like a Vortex Razor (40+ oz) on a rifle kicking with 5000 ft/lbs and you can snap 6-48s. As far as rings since I use mainly picatinny mounts I make sure to use picatinny rings. You want the larger crossbolt that fits the slot in the mount. I also mount bigger scopes so I like a lot of contact to prevent the tube slipping so the 6 screw style rings are my choice. As far as scope, a lot of good recommendations. You really do not need to spend big bucks for a Euro scope (I've seen a fair share of dead Zeiss scopes) but you do need a quality scope. The less weight of a 1-4X would be an advantage. Avoid things that can break like electronics, side focus. Also look for etched reticle instead of wire and if possible one that is FFP. If any lens shifts in front of the reticle the POI will change. The favorite term of the scope manufacturers when you ask what went wrong with the scope you returned is "loss of collimation", basically a lens came loose. So the less lenses in front of the reticle the better. In the old days they use to say a scope had a lot of "reticle float". No, just lenses floating around. The best recommendation I liked for a guide gun that may take a beating, the ACOG! Might not be pretty but they always seemed to be tougher then a cheap steak to me while I was in the service.
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