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.308 Semi Auto Hunting/Battle Rifle

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mike650 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mike650 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/31/2010 at 13:36
Nice post Jon!!!
“A hunt based only on trophies taken falls far short of what the ultimate goal should be.” – Fred Bear
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BeltFed View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BeltFed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/31/2010 at 15:37
+1 for one of the AR-10s providing it's a flat top for mounting a scope, if you want a scope.
 
If you want an accurate M1 Garand get an M1A, it's cheaper and it is rare that the best tuned match grade M1 will out shoot a standard grade M1A. If you want a tack driving M1A for match shooting, get a Super Match M1A. If you want a M1A for hunting, plinking, or home defense, get a standard grade M1A. The Super Match M1A has some modifications to the gas system, glass bedding of the stock, sights, and trigger group, etc. that could be screwed up in the field or may not be desirable for hunting or hard use, and they need special care for cleaning and maintenance.
 
As for the M14 and full auto fire: it is worthless. Unless the M14 is configured as the squad auto with E2 stock, bipod, E2 sling, and muzzle brake, then it is ok in full auto, but it's heavy and not as controllable as a 1918A1 BAR.
Life's concerns should be about the 120lb pack your trying to get to the top of the mountain, and not the rock in your boot.
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neilbilly View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote neilbilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/31/2010 at 16:20

Save a grand and get a Winchester Model 100 .308  You can still find them at shows and such for about 500 bucks. 


http://www.chuckhawks.com/winchester_100_rifle.htm 


http://www.wisnersinc.com/additional_info/winchesterl_88_100.htm


Can't help it. I'm sentimental about the model. I got one from my dad when he passed away. I've taken a few animals with it and retired it in 2009. Mine was made in 1970 same as me and still shoots about moa at 100 yards if I do my part. 



If God didn't want me to play with it, he'd of made my arms shorter.
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Urimaginaryfrnd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Urimaginaryfrnd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/31/2010 at 16:47
I would suggest the DPMS or the Rock River  .308 with the 16 in barrel as the longer ones are miserably heavy to carry and make better bench rest guns. Typically these have the collapsable stock and many different scope ring mounts designed for AR15 will work.  As for M1a I love the rifle but regret trying to make it something it was never designed to be - a scoped rifle.  The best solution if you must have an optic on an M1a is an Aimpoint as they do not require a good cheekweld.  Shown below is the beat way to do the M1a as a battle rifle  Karsten cheekpiece, Smith Enterpirises ACOG mount and Smith Vortex flash suppressor.


Edited by Urimaginaryfrnd - March/31/2010 at 16:50

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jonoMT View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonoMT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/31/2010 at 17:23
Originally posted by BeltFed BeltFed wrote:

If you want an accurate M1 Garand get an M1A, it's cheaper and it is rare that the best tuned match grade M1 will out shoot a standard grade M1A.
 True, true. A significant reason for that is the better accuracy of the .308 Win cartridge. I've fired a Garand chambered for .308 and it was more accurate than mine. The owner hadn't done anything special to it.
Originally posted by BeltFed BeltFed wrote:

As for the M14 and full auto fire: it is worthless. Unless the M14 is configured as the squad auto with E2 stock, bipod, E2 sling, and muzzle brake, then it is ok in full auto, but it's heavy and not as controllable as a 1918A1 BAR.
Beretta did a pretty good job with their BM59 variant in taming it for full-auto fire. Here's an interesting article on their version: http://www.gunsmagazine.com/bm59/GCA0283.pdf


Reaction time is a factor...
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Longhunter View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Longhunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/01/2010 at 08:00
I don't have partularly good recollections of the M-1 Garand.  The one I was issued in basic training jammed consistently.  I had to kick it open with my boot after every shot when I qualified.  This made rapid-fire particularly challenging!  That rifle was condemned after I finished basic.
 
The rifle is heavy, and somewhat awkward.  It doesn't carry comfortably on your shoulder.  The steel buttplate is designed to resist wear and for hand-to-hand combat.  It is not recoil friendly.
 
The "ping" that the 8-shot clip gives when it is automatically ejected gives the bad guys notice of where you are, and that you are (hopefully) reloading.
 
You also have to beware of the "M-1 thumb", since your thumb can actually be pierced (painful!!) if you don't get it out quickly when loading a new clip.  Happened to my best buddy, and he was not happy about it!
 
The best part of the M-1 Garand was the .30-06 cartridge.  However, for accuracy and carry weight the .308 has a lot going for it.
 
The M-1 worked fine for a friend's father in the South Pacific.  They were clearing caves.  he ducked his head in, saw a Jap corporal, and emptied a clip into him and the cave.  The .30-06 rounds punched through the corporal and killed an unseen Japanese major behind him!  The rising sun flag (with bullet holes) and the Samurai sword were hanging in my friend's room.  His Dad was quite a man, and deserving of respect for many reasons.  The M-1 helped him get back home alive.   
 
The M-1 carbine was a pistol-substitute, short on power but a handy little thing.  Ruger's fine little Mini-14 is a good take on this concept. 
 
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jonoMT View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonoMT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/01/2010 at 10:26
Originally posted by Longhunter Longhunter wrote:

I don't have partularly good recollections of the M-1 Garand.  The one I was issued in basic training jammed consistently.  I had to kick it open with my boot after every shot when I qualified.  This made rapid-fire particularly challenging!  That rifle was condemned after I finished basic.
 
The rifle is heavy, and somewhat awkward.  It doesn't carry comfortably on your shoulder.  The steel buttplate is designed to resist wear and for hand-to-hand combat.  It is not recoil friendly.
 
The "ping" that the 8-shot clip gives when it is automatically ejected gives the bad guys notice of where you are, and that you are (hopefully) reloading.
 
You also have to beware of the "M-1 thumb", since your thumb can actually be pierced (painful!!) if you don't get it out quickly when loading a new clip.  Happened to my best buddy, and he was not happy about it!


Sounds like you were issued one that was heavily abused. My dad didn't particularly care for his either...mostly because cadets at the Air Force Academy were required to keep them spotless and polished.

The M1 is heavy. I would never recommend it for hunting, having carried it around for two days just for fun once. I did get a nice buck with mine. Also, if you have a rule like we do that every time you climb in the truck weapons are unloaded, it sucks having to eject the clip and have a pile of loose rounds in your hands.

No one has ever documented a case where the pinging sound led to someone being left vulnerable. First of all, having just fired 8 rounds might have already clued the enemy in as to the shooter's whereabouts. Secondly, overall battle noise was usually far greater. Also, most people can reload the M1 pretty quickly.

Garand thumb can easily be avoided by using the edge of your hand to control the op-rod handle, especially while pushing the follower down to (gently) release the bolt:


Reaction time is a factor...
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