Visit the SWFA.com site to check out our current specials. |
2 piece base bedding |
Post Reply |
Author | |
mil169
Optics Journeyman Joined: February/28/2012 Location: Nebraska Status: Offline Points: 378 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: May/29/2012 at 22:32 |
I found lots of good info and how to's on bedding a one piece base. However, I haven't found anything on how to bed a two piece base.
Does anyone have any good tips or links to video's or something that would help with this. I'm getting ready to mount my Ziess Conquest 4.5-14x44, and would like to check everything out before I mess something up.
I'm using Warne bases with Leupold PRW rings.
Thanks for the help.
|
|
Bitterroot Bulls
Optics Master Extraordinaire Joined: May/07/2009 Location: Montana Status: Offline Points: 3416 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
You will need some sort of jig to align the bases to each other. TPS used to make the BaseBed system for doing this, but I don't know if they do anymore. You may want to give them a call, and see if they are still available.
Otherwise, as was discussed in the ring lapping thread, you are going to need to do something else, like bed the rings to the scope or lap.
|
|
-Matt
|
|
mil169
Optics Journeyman Joined: February/28/2012 Location: Nebraska Status: Offline Points: 378 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
thanks
|
|
3_tens
Optics Jedi Master Joined: January/08/2007 Location: Oklahoma Status: Offline Points: 7853 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
All this bedding and lapping seems like a lot of time and expense when you compare to the Burris Signature Select rings. They automatically align perfectly with the scope. Never damage the scope with ring marks plus provides a more secure grip. If you want to add elevation, just swap the inserts in increments up to 20 MOA. I guess I am lazy. I try to get the right tool for the job the first time. I tend to swap scopes around a lot for testing and have never found any ring marks on any scope mounted with the Burris SS rings.
|
|
Folks ain't got a sense of humor no more. They don't laugh they just get sore.
Need to follow the rules. Just hard to determine which set of rules to follow Now the rules have changed again. |
|
Jon A
Optics Journeyman Joined: March/14/2008 Location: Everett, WA Status: Offline Points: 670 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I agree they are a very nice and easy solution to many mounting problems and are a great choice for many applications. But I have to comment on the "more secure grip" notion as I see it said often about these rings. More secure than what? Some of their light non-insert rings? Possibly, but certainly not more than any number of heavier duty rings. In fact, among the LR guys shooting hard kicking rifles, these rings seem to get complaints for scope slippage more than any other. Like I said, there's nothing wrong with the rings but people should be realistic--there's nothing magic about the inserts. I've tested my rings with and with out nylon inserts and it really doesn't make a difference. Anyway, bedding a two piece base--that can be tricky. Are either of the bases long enough you can have a ring mounted on one end and still leave a screw exposed? |
|
koshkin
MODERATOR Dark Lord of Optics Joined: June/15/2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13182 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I do not think I have ever found a need to bed two-piece bases.
Have you checked ring alignment? Perhaps, all you need to do is lap the rings. ILya
|
|
stickbow46
Optics Master Extraordinaire Joined: January/07/2009 Location: Benton, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4678 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
|
Pearls of Wisdom are Heard not Spoken
|
|
mil169
Optics Journeyman Joined: February/28/2012 Location: Nebraska Status: Offline Points: 378 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I guess I'm just trying to error on the side of caution. Before being introduced to this site and hanging around here I knew very little in the ways of optics and what goes with them.
I did check the ring alignment to the best of my abilities and it does seem very good. I took a piece of turn ground and polished shaft that measured .9998 and set it in the lower half of the rings that were already mounted to the bases. Then I pushed down of the shaft directly above the lower ring half and felt for movement. Without setting up indicators and such I don't know how else to check it. I didn't feel any movement when pushing of either the front or rear ring. I also used a light to check the gap between the bar and ring. The light band seemed very even and the same on each ring.
I also talked with a gun smith buddy today who uses the same setup and he didn't think any other steps would be necessary, so right or wrong I'm going with it.
Thanks for the advice, I will keep the Burris setup in mind for the future.
|
|
mil169
Optics Journeyman Joined: February/28/2012 Location: Nebraska Status: Offline Points: 378 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Anyway, bedding a two piece base--that can be tricky. Are either of the bases long enough you can have a ring mounted on one end and still leave a screw exposed?
[/QUOTE] Actually they are. My plan was this. To mount the bases with the exposed screw. Then secure the the bottom half of the ring to the base. Next place the the 1" TGP (turn ground and polished) bar on the ring and then secure it with the top half. This should lock the 2 bases into one unit. I thought I could then proceed with the procedure for a one piece base.
Is this even close, to what others have done?
|
|
mil169
Optics Journeyman Joined: February/28/2012 Location: Nebraska Status: Offline Points: 378 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I'm going to revive my old thread.
I've thought about this particular question alot in the last few months and this is what I came up with.
Basically I used my previous idea utilizing the ring and base set-up and a 1" piece of turn,ground, and polished shaft. I loosely mounted the bases with the exposed screw, and then attached the lower have of the rings. I drilled an access hole through the TGP shaft so I could access the front screw on the rear base, and left the shaft short enough as to not cover the front screw on the front base. I then secured the shaft to the bases with the top half of the ring. This locked the system together and I then removed the base, ring, and shaft combo from the reciever. I then plugged the screw holes in the reciever that I wasn't using with set screws and waxed the reciever. Next I mixed up the epoxy and spread on each base and pushed the cap screw into the exposed holes and cleaned off the extra epoxy. I cleaned the epoxy out of the covered hole as best I could and set the unit back onto the reciever. I put light pressure on the two screws I was using and waited. After the epoxy set-up I removed the unit, cleaned it up and set it back on the reciever and screwed it down snug. I removed the rings and shaft and installed the second screw on each base with loctite and then did the same with the front screw.
I checked the bases to one another with a straight edge and they seem perfect. Kind of a pain in butt, but I think it worked. I plan on shooting it tomorrow night and I'll let you know how that goes in my Range Report thread 1st day with new M70 7mm rem mag. Edited by mil169 - August/09/2012 at 21:50 |
|
RifleDude
MODERATOR EVIL OPPRESSOR Joined: October/13/2006 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 16337 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Your method is sound. It's a variation of what I've done before.
As you've discovered, bedding 2-pc bases is a PITA, because the rings and/or the scope tube usually blocks one or both of the base screw holes, and you need to use the screw holes to aid in alignment. You also have to plug any holes not used for alignment to prevent epoxy from plugging them up. You can also use close-fitting steel dowel pins in the screw holes for base / receiver alignment. |
|
Ted
Money can't buy happiness... but it's much more comfortable to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle. |
|
mil169
Optics Journeyman Joined: February/28/2012 Location: Nebraska Status: Offline Points: 378 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thanks for the confirmation Rifle Dude, it's nice to know others have used similiar ideas with success. It was a pain, but I think in the long run it will pay off. It is also nice knowing that there are no undo outside stresses being applied to my scope. This whole thing has been a learning process. Like everything, the more I learn the less I feel I know.
I know in the future any scope I mount will have a bedded base. I'm contemplating taking my muzzleloader setup apart and bedding that base as well. It is a one piece, so it should be a walk in the park.
I have pics of the procedure, unfortunately I wasn't able to get them off of the camera before the wife went out of town. I should be able to post them up this weekend.
|
|
mil169
Optics Journeyman Joined: February/28/2012 Location: Nebraska Status: Offline Points: 378 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Here's a few pics of the set-up.
|
|
TheSwede
Optics GrassHopper Joined: February/13/2014 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 24 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Cant you just glue the bases up side down to a steelbar. Turn it over to the action, Let the front base guide. You can also drill holes in the steelbar so you can screw the bases onto the action with the glued steelbar on top making it straight horisontal. It will be like bedding a 1 piece.
|
|
RifleDude
MODERATOR EVIL OPPRESSOR Joined: October/13/2006 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 16337 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Hi, Swede. This thread is 2 years old. No problem, but just wanted to mention that.
To answer your question, yes you theoretically could do that, but unless you made a rod that exactly duplicated the front receiver ring diameter and the radius on the rear bridge to within less than 0.001" size and also duplicated any taper on both surfaces (which is usually there, however slight), as well as the true positions of the screw holes, you won't get a good, skin-tight bedding job. The workers who polished the action usually do so by hand, and therefore, the outside diameter is no longer perfectly straight and level anymore from the grinding & polishing operation. This is the reason people bed mount bases in the first place, in fact. |
|
Ted
Money can't buy happiness... but it's much more comfortable to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle. |
|
TheSwede
Optics GrassHopper Joined: February/13/2014 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 24 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Oh didnt noticed that, yes thats an old one.
I have a mauser 98 undrilled action, but my smith drilled it straight for warne bases. the front reciever surfice looked good but the rear was off due to heavy polish i guess. So i use the front base as a guide. Glued a steel bar to it and the rear base and put JB weld between action and rear base. It came out very nice. Still gonna lap the rings becouse as i see it, its always a good idea even thou it sometimes isnt neccessary. |
|
Clark
Optics Apprentice Joined: February/13/2004 Location: Near Seattle Status: Offline Points: 124 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Bedding a two piece mount to have both mounts parallel with the bore [and in the same plane with each other] takes some skill, some fixturing, and technique.
Little kids could bed a one piece so that a scope with the reticle adjusted to the scope tube will be on the paper. Practice with the one piece.
|
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |