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RifleDude View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/22/2015 at 10:13
CR2032 is one of the more common coin type batteries around and aren't difficult to find at all unless you live in a very remote area. I've never had any trouble finding them at WalMart, Walgreens, etc. Pretty much any store that carries watch batteries will usually have them. All CR2032 batteries are Lithium Ion in one form or anther.

Concerning the earlier comments on 3V vs. 3.6V, don't worry about that. The 3.6V versions can be used interchangeably with complete safety in any device designed for 2032 batteries. The 3.6 volt versions are the LiR2032 rechargeable batteries and the 3V CR2032 are the non-rechargeable versions. LiR2032 has a slightly higher voltage as a bi-product of its rechargeable chemistry, but both CR2032 and LiR2032 are designed to operate at the same nominal current draw. All electronic devices have a min and max voltage operating range that extends above and below the nominal "rated" voltage, and pretty much all  batteries of any type test higher than their nominal voltage when new. Seldom is a battery actually operating at its nominal voltage when under load. Put a digital volt meter on a brand new, fully charged 12V car battery, and you'll find it typically tests at between 12.7 - 13 volts.

A brand new, fully charged CR2032 will test at an actual voltage of about 3.2 - 3.4 volts and is considered "discharged" at around 2.7 volts or so or at about 10% below nominal voltage. A fully charged LiR2032 will check at close to 4V and is also considered discharged at around 2.7 volts.
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MikieG View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/22/2015 at 10:51
So the question is, will this higher voltage damage the illum led?
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supertool73 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/22/2015 at 10:58
Originally posted by MikieG MikieG wrote:

So the question is, will this higher voltage damage the illum led?


Originally posted by RifleDude RifleDude wrote:



Concerning the earlier comments on 3V vs. 3.6V, don't worry about that. The 3.6V versions can be used interchangeably with complete safety in any device designed for 2032 batteries.



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/22/2015 at 12:01
Originally posted by MikieG MikieG wrote:

So the question is, will this higher voltage damage the illum led?


Not trying to be flippant, but did you read my post? I covered that in detail, and the reasons why.

No, it won't damage the LED at all. Electronic devices are designed to function in a relatively broad range of voltages as long as you don't go way over or under the "nominal" voltage. The "spec" voltage for both the device and the batteries it was designed for are nominal values, which is seldom the same as actual voltage, as the voltage varies a lot during operation and during the life of the battery.
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MikieG View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/22/2015 at 13:38
My caution comes from an experience with a P60 flashlight module. Three alkaline AA batteries add up to a voltage the emitter was rated for. BUT.. When i used three Duracell rechargables unknown to me, these produce higher voltages. So additively, the voltage was a bit higher than the module was rated for. So you can only imagine my expression when i clicked the switch to see my $19 emitter go super nova and fry before i could click the switch again.
Now apply this scenario to a $1500 rifle optic.
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RifleDude View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/22/2015 at 15:44
I don't know what to tell you, Mike.

The 3.6V 2032 rechargeable battery won't harm your illuminated reticle circuit. However, if you don't believe that and are really concerned, don't buy the 3.6V rechargeable version. In fact, There's no shortage of CR2032 batteries; they are just about the most common size coin battery on the planet, and are far more commonly found in stores than the rechargeable version anyway. In fact, I believe you'd be hard-pressed to walk into any WalMart or Walgreens and NOT find them on the shelf.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/22/2015 at 15:51
Walmart is exactly where i got the energizer replacement i currently have. I have just noticed that there are awesome bulk deals on ebay.

I just really want to make sure they are right as well as worth the quality.
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RifleDude View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/22/2015 at 16:06
Man, I guess I live life on the edge or something. Whenever I buy batteries, I just look at the alphanumeric part # code, pick the type I want (alkaline, lithium, etc.) and the brands I've found to last longer and don't fret over it.

If these batteries were really expensive or hard to find, that would be one thing, but they're neither. A 2032 battery is a 2032 battery. I'm sure some brands last longer than others, but CR2032 and LiR2032 wouldn't use the same number designation and be the same diameter and thickness if they  couldn't be used interchangeably. The manufacturers tell you they can be used interchangeably, and I don't think they'd do that if there was a risk their recommendation could damage expensive gear.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/22/2015 at 23:33
Originally posted by MikieG MikieG wrote:

My caution comes from an experience with a P60 flashlight module. Three alkaline AA batteries add up to a voltage the emitter was rated for. BUT.. When i used three Duracell rechargables unknown to me, these produce higher voltages. So additively, the voltage was a bit higher than the module was rated for. So you can only imagine my expression when i clicked the switch to see my $19 emitter go super nova and fry before i could click the switch again.
Now apply this scenario to a $1500 rifle optic.


Just wondering, but how do you know it was the batteries and not the device?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/23/2015 at 05:45
Rifledude is telling it straight!  I'm an Electronics Technician with 32 years experience.  He is spot on about manufacturers being extremely cautious about using same base part number on batteries if they are not compatible as it would create a huge product liability and warranty issue for them.
 
LEDs themselves drop a different voltage depending on how much current is flowing thru them. That voltage is determined by the LED's chemistry and color.  Red LED's run about 3.0VDC, blue ones about 2.6VDC, white ones about 3.3VDC.  Even same color same lot will have voltage variations of up to 10% commonly.
 
Most LED drive circuits no longer worry about voltage in that they are constant current sources.
They output a constant current within the capability of the LED and let the voltage end up where-ever it wants to.
 
LEDs as well as most ICs are screened during manufacturing and sorted and sold by capability
with the better parts demanding a premium....  Even the premium parts are subject to failure.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/23/2015 at 08:52
The flashlight was a Cre P60 with a buck boost circuit running .8 to 4.2v. The three freshly charged Duracell AAs totaled 4.8v. The booster died as the module will only run on the 18650 cell and NOT the AA cell. It only runs at half power at that.

That said, i am NOT an electronics guy by any stretch of the term. Hence the fear.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/23/2015 at 10:23
A buck boost power supply is simply a switching power supply that is able to generate and regulate an output voltage that is higher then it's supply voltage.  Most power supplies operate in a step down voltage regulation scenario outputing a controlled voltage less than what is supplied to it.
 
LED's use boost drivers all the time since they will continue to lite the LED even after the applied voltage falls below the turn on voltage of the LED.  The Buck Boost specs would be whats limiting the maximum applied voltage.  Most of those switching Power supply ICs have maximum aplied voltage in the 12Volt or higher range.  Sounds like you had a LED driver circuit failure....
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/23/2015 at 13:55
This particular P60 is supposed to run on everything from a single 18650 down to a single AA. The light is a Solarforce L2M. The body comes apart in sections so you can reduce length down to a single CR123 all the way up to 3 or 4 18650 cells. That is if your drop in can support the voltage.

This light will run on anything that will fit into the tube. I am returning the defective P60.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/05/2016 at 23:08
Hope I'm not stepping on toes here but I have a scope I would like to put up for sale it is a Zeiss 6.5/20/50 it has the #43 target retecale asking $800.

If I did this wrong go easy on me its my first item I have posted for sale
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/06/2016 at 12:00
Originally posted by wranglerdog wranglerdog wrote:

Hope I'm not stepping on toes here but I have a scope I would like to put up for sale it is a Zeiss 6.5/20/50 it has the #43 target retecale asking $800.

If I did this wrong go easy on me its my first item I have posted for sale

Selling it to buy another Athlon?

I thought you were abandoning us for more hospitable environs.

There is a section for "optics for sale", a moderator will probably move it for you.

And it would help to have a model (Conquest, Diavari, etc) and pictures usually help too.

Good luck with the sale.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/06/2016 at 15:31
Yeah really. I thought you were "lol-ing" and "ha-ha-ing" whilst you left us in a huff......  
If at first you don't secede...try..try again.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/06/2016 at 15:34
I did and you betcha that's just what I'm selling it for .
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/06/2016 at 15:41
Seeing how I managed to end up here again the only reason I said anything about the athlon scope was because a person wanted some advice on a good scope for a fair price !!! I never dreamed I would be accused of buying parts and putting together scope and that bullsh*t . I don't want any part of that crap I have better things to do with my time .
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/06/2016 at 15:47
If at first you don't secede...try..try again.
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