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New Scope for LR Shooting & Hunting

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supertool73 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote supertool73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/02/2019 at 11:55
I still use 100 yard zeros with them.  so 200 yard will be no issue
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CJarvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/02/2019 at 12:36
Warne makes a 20 MOA version. What does the Seekins offer that I should consider it over the Warne or another MFG?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote supertool73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/02/2019 at 12:53
I like how the seekins attaches better.  They use smaller screws that actually go into the base instead of a big nut on the side.  Just sleeker and looks better.

Plus I just think they are better looking overall. 





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CJarvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/02/2019 at 13:06

Heh, that's funny! I watched my dad make all the mistakes and learned what NOT to do. It's my mouth that usually gets me in trouble. Aspie+Sensitive = Hammer Hit


I explain my bald spot by telling everyone that my wife has worn the hair off with head-slaps. D'oh!

@Supertool73: You're right about the aesthetics. I don't care for the bolts on the side either. Is there any need/benefit in lapping that mount?


Edited by CJarvis - April/02/2019 at 13:21
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote supertool73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/02/2019 at 13:29
No, don't lap

Lapping is a bandaid fix on two piece rings if they don't square up correctly.  A single piece mount should be machined perfectly.  Especially one made by Glen Seekins.  Bucky
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CJarvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/02/2019 at 13:48
Originally posted by supertool73 supertool73 wrote:

No, don't lap

Lapping is a bandaid fix on two piece rings if they don't square up correctly.  A single piece mount should be machined perfectly.  Especially one made by Glen Seekins.  Bucky


That's exactly what I thought. I did, however, have a Primary Arms one-piece mount that did need lapping though... I retired it to the spare parts pile.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote supertool73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/02/2019 at 14:09
Good point, you never know with a less expensive one.  But a $200 we would hope not to have that issue.

 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BeltFed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/02/2019 at 14:49
Gee, I liked the Burris 3-15x50, but I've always liked Vortex too.
Life's concerns should be about the 120lb pack your trying to get to the top of the mountain, and not the rock in your boot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CJarvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/02/2019 at 16:05
Originally posted by BeltFed BeltFed wrote:

Gee, I liked the Burris 3-15x50, but I've always liked Vortex too.



It looked good to me as well, but the DLOO spoke, and I obeyed.

My experience with Burris has been with the Fullfield II scopes. They're adequate and rugged, but they weren't anything special. Burris also didn't update their product line for ages and I didn't get the feeling that their upper level optics were anything special either, so it's been at least 10 years since I've even considered an optic from them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BeltFed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/02/2019 at 19:24
Well if I were going to choose between my recommendation or ILya's, I'd choose Ilya's.
Life's concerns should be about the 120lb pack your trying to get to the top of the mountain, and not the rock in your boot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CJarvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/08/2019 at 16:04
So, the scope and base, as well as all the other parts, are in hand, and the upper, lower, stock, handguard and scope mount have been painted with Duracoat "Snow Gray". I'll post some pics someday when I get it all together.

Can't wait to get the scope mounted up and take it to the range. Two things I can say about the scope right now though: 1) The illuminated reticle is going to be crucial for low-light shooting, particularly at lower magnifications, and 2) I wish the rheostat were a bit easier to turn.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tip69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/08/2019 at 17:39
Vortex or Meopta  ?
take em!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CJarvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/08/2019 at 17:55
Vortex
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 3_tens Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/08/2019 at 23:41
Shootem 
Folks ain't got a sense of humor no more. They don't laugh they just get sore.

Need to follow the rules. Just hard to determine which set of rules to follow
Now the rules have changed again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rancid Coolaid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/09/2019 at 08:27
A range note: AR10s are notoriously over-gassed, so playing with the gas block might be necessary. And over-lube the bolt. The general rule on AR10 break-in is "if you think you have too much lube, you almost have enough."

I frog lube all my bolts, but if that isn't an option, a CLP-type lube works fine, just use it in abundance.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sparky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/09/2019 at 09:29
Originally posted by Rancid Coolaid Rancid Coolaid wrote:

The general rule on AR10 break-in is "if you think you have too much lube, you almost have enough."

+1.  That is an understatement to say the least.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote supertool73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/09/2019 at 09:33
Just a heads up about Frog lube.  If you use it in any kind of cold environment, even moderately cold it turns into a hard waxy sticky substance. 

One of the guys that helped get Frog Lube going was an instructor at Front Sight years back.  He was peddling it like crazy down there.  All the staff and students started using and loving it, as it worked great in that dusty environment vs oil.  I had it on all my ARs, pistols.  I was baking it in in the oven, applying it in the barrels and everywhere else.  Then came winter.  Now, the Front Sight staff hates it, says to stay away from it.  My personal guns got all gummed up, my bolts would hardly move in the carrier.  It likes everything goes into slow motion when it gets cold.  

Also if you are constantly applying it, it eventually runs into the trigger groups and places you may not want very much.  It will then turn waxy, and you have to clean it all off.  Kind of a pain to have to clean off the lubricant you put on because it makes the parts not work correctly after a while. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CJarvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/09/2019 at 09:34
Thanks for the tip. I’m fresh out of frogs and coconut oil, so some G96 will have to do. Clown 

It’s a Proof Research barrel with a rifle+2” length gas tube, and according to PR, it’s supposed to shoot fine with a standard weight  bolt, buffer and spring. Having said that, I bought the adj. gas block in case of just such a problem and I’m anticipating having to use it. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rancid Coolaid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/09/2019 at 10:02
Originally posted by supertool73 supertool73 wrote:

Just a heads up about Frog lube.  If you use it in any kind of cold environment, even moderately cold it turns into a hard waxy sticky substance. 


My process is to put the part in the oven on 200 for 10 minutes or so, take it out and lube it up, scrub it in,let it cool, then wipe off the excess. My parkerized and phosphate bolts end up shiny, but have never gone waxy.

Then again, the coldest my rifles have gone is probably mid-20s, but no wax or issues at that temp.

Admittedly, I don't run ARs in arctic temps.

From my experience, I love the stuff, but mileage varies, I guess.

The message is the same: lube, lube, and more lube!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote supertool73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/09/2019 at 10:25
Intent is not to come off argumentative, just sharing different experiences with lube on large frame ARs.  I have two of them, and never have lubed them extreme in any way.  I put a little grease on the carrier rails and on the bolt in places and I have not had any issues at all functionality wise.  My Aero has a bit over 500 rounds now as I bought 500 brass for it and am on the start of my 2nd time around with them.  Granted I have never used mine in a class or anything where I may run 800 or 1000 rounds without cleaning.  In that case I would likely want lots o lube.  But in my case as a basic hunting and range use AR, I have just not had the issue of needing lots of lube.  

I personally am not a fan of tons of lube because of my personal use of them.  Mine are on my ATVs/UTVs a lot, so they get dusty.  Less oil means less dirt getting stuck all inside it.  That is one thing I loved about the Frog Lube.  I didn't oil or grease at all and they worked great.  But in the cold climate of Utah, it just didn't work well at that point. 

One place I really loved the frog lube.  My gas piston ar.  It is my main suppressor used AR, and it made cleaning the blow back off much easier. 

They both were over gassed badly initially, but that just required (as stated above) a few adjustments of the gas block
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