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Top tier AR's

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RifleDude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RifleDude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/10/2014 at 15:54
Originally posted by supertool73 supertool73 wrote:

I use a pencil and just draw lines


Me too. And, I do prefer a clamp-on gas block to a setscrew or pinned one.

One other option you can do if your gas block has a flat top (mine has integral rails on top and bottom) is to level the rifle in a cradle on the receiver rail, then once the rifle is level, put the level on the top of the gas block flat, level, and tighten.
Ted


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote supertool73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/10/2014 at 15:57
I had a barrel once where the gas port and the barrel extension were not square with each other.  So my gas block was slightly turned.  Still worked fine, but it would not have worked very well if my gas block would have been a front sight. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sgt. D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/10/2014 at 16:13

If your dealing with flat top upper and your gas block has a short rail or flat top you can lay them upside down on two blocks and tighten the screws while holdin some down pressure.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RifleDude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/10/2014 at 16:15
Thunbs UpAnother good tip. Thanks, Mark!
Ted


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mil169 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mil169 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/10/2014 at 16:21
The flat top gas block would definitely make it easier. I tend to like the low profile versions like YHM clamp on and set screw style. I just didn't know how much tolerance there was to line up the gas block to the port. Is there a general size the gas port on the blocks are machined to?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sgt. D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/10/2014 at 16:29
Most of the blocks I've seen are ported oversize to allow some play. The barrel port is really what determines the amount of pressure you get to the bolt. I have not heard of any benefit in having a exact matching block to barrel port. But to answer your question I believe there is a standard block port size. Maybe one of the other guys will know what it is.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RifleDude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/10/2014 at 17:12
Originally posted by mil169 mil169 wrote:

The flat top gas block would definitely make it easier. I tend to like the low profile versions like YHM clamp on and set screw style.


My double rail (top and bottom) gas block is fairly low profile, is made by YHM, and is a clamp-on style.
I had no trouble lining up the ports, and never had the first problem.
Ted


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Peddler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/10/2014 at 17:52
Ted, we wouldn't expect operator error would be in your wheelhouse.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpwomack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/10/2014 at 18:00
On my first build I spent a lot of time measuring where the port hole was on the gas block just to make sure I was lined up. After that I bought a jig from BCM that has a set screw that goes into the gas port and allows you to dimple your barrel. Works with Vltor gas blocks and others, but have used this on at least ten builds and it works well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote koshkin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/10/2014 at 18:36
I use low profile clamp on gas blocks almost exclusively and there is no magic to aligning them to the gas port on the barrel.

Since the hole on the gas block is oversized, you can just eyeball it.  I have OCD, so I mount the upper vertically with the barrel pointed down and use a plumbline to align the gas block.

Except for my Grendel barrel which has an incorrectly drilled gas port.  That one I had to do some measurements on.  Drives me nuts just knowing that it is off center.  Works great though with zero reliability issues.

ILya
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Urimaginaryfrnd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/10/2014 at 22:52
White Oak Armory makes a very high quality upper match that with a Rock River lower change to a Geissele trigger your good to go cheap as it gets.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mil169 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/14/2014 at 21:20
Here's what I propose to use on my "SPR" build:
Seekins billet SP223 upper (irmt-r) and lower
Seekins MCSR rail
Seekins mag release button
Rainier 18" mid length SPR profile barrel
YHM clamp on gas block
WOA gas tube
ALG Combat trigger- tuned by Giessele
A2 buffer tube with Magpul MOE fixed stock
KNS turned pins and detents
BCM bcg
 
Any suggestions?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote supertool73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/14/2014 at 21:35
That should make a very nice rifle. Maybe try and adams arms piston kit. I sure like the one i got
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ccoker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/15/2014 at 08:49
I will pipe in..
Nice ARs are well, just nicer..

done :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rancid Coolaid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/15/2014 at 08:58
Originally posted by supertool73 supertool73 wrote:

That should make a very nice rifle. Maybe try and adams arms piston kit. I sure like the one i got

I've seen more than a few issues with after-market piston kits.  I haven't messed with them in awhile, but know Adams stuff had issues awhile back, a few years, not sure if they squared those away or not.

Piston systems have their advantages (much cleaner running, much cooler running) and disadvantages (bolt and/or upper/lower wear if the bolt isn't traveling correctly in the raceway, reliability issues, non-standard parts, non-standard design, problem-prone gas blocks, and general "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"-ness) and the owner has to decide if they are worth the extra effort.

I have one piston gun (Sig 716 - and like it) and it took significantly more time to break in than any DI gun I have owned or run.  I have run a few more, don't care much for the recoil impulse on piston guns, but that probably has much more to do with the number of rounds I have run through DI guns.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote supertool73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/15/2014 at 20:28
My biggest like of my adams arms is running it with my suppressor. With DI it gets dirty crazy fast. With my piston i habe went near 400 rounds with suppressor. I can honestly say i have not had a single issue with the adams kit. I have over 2500 rounds with it so far. Their issues were back before they supplied their own custom carrier. Since they redesigned the carrier the issues have went way down.   I have zero regrets buying mine. Recoil impulse, supposed accuracy issues, carrier tilt, have not been issues in my case. Mine gun still shots .5 moa and i don't notice much of a diff in recoil. A little but not much. I check my carrier and buffer tube often and so far no unusual wear.

If u are buidling a new gun its really not a huge cost increase either. Converting a gun is another story. If i had the disposable income i would convert all my ars to the adams kit. I just really like it a d have been happy with it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Urimaginaryfrnd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/16/2014 at 10:10
mil 169 that sounds like a very nice build my favorite AR is my 18in barrel M4 type

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mil169 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/16/2014 at 10:47
I'm gathering parts now. I had bought a Spikes bcg, but now I want the BCM. So I'll keep the Spikes as a spare. Then it's time for the expensive stuff, billet upper/lower and handguard.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote supertool73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/16/2014 at 10:50
Consider a chromed or nickel plated carrier as well.  They are much easier to clean than the phosphate ones. 

This is a nice one.  http://midwestpx.com/product_info.php?cPath=52_97&products_id=779


Edited by supertool73 - July/16/2014 at 11:06
Lifetime warranty and excellent customer service don't mean a thing when your gun fails during a zombie attack.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mil169 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/16/2014 at 21:10
Thanks for the tips.
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